2-step method for the darkest purple result

This 2-step method is for those who want the darkest and most permanent purple hair color possible, especially on light roots. You'll get a dark plum color with pink undertones which will be most visible in bright light or on light colored hair. As all natural hair dyes are translucent, greys turn out purple-peach, about one shade darker than pastel. This mix feels pretty slimy due to the gum thickener. Another post describes the 1-step method, which yields a wine red purple color. The alum after-soak improves permanence, but some people don't need it.

IMPORTANT: Do your usual henna application at some time prior to this logwood step. The logwood won't stick well otherwise. 

INGREDIENTS IF YOU HAVE POWDER - half head

4.33 T logwood powder

1.56 tsp baking soda

1 tsp guar or xanthan gum powder to thicken 

1.5 cups distilled water 

Alum after-soak: 

1 tsp potassium alum (Or 2/3 tsp aluminum sulfate)

1 tsp baking soda

1/2 cup warm water (about 100 F)

1/3 tsp guar or xanthan gum powder to thicken (optionally, mix it into vegetable glycerin first for easier mixing)

INGREDIENTS IF YOU HAVE BARK CHIPS FOR INFUSION - half head

51.96g logwood chips

1.56 tsp baking soda

1 tsp guar or xanthan gum powder to thicken 

1.5-2 cups distilled water 

Alum after-soak: 

1 tsp potassium alum

1 tsp baking soda

1/2 cup warm water 

1/3 tsp guar or xanthan gum powder to thicken (optionally, mix it into vegetable glycerin for easier mixing)

DIRECTIONS 

- First, take a shower. Wash your hair twice, and don't use conditioner on the area of hair you're dyeing. 

- Get dressed in your dyeing clothes, and prep your dyeing area. 

- In a pot, place logwood and a small amount of distilled water (1.5 cups) and boil for 5 minutes. It will look orangey.

(For infusion: Keep the logwood chips in disposable teabags, soak overnight, and dispose of them after heating. Or have the logwood chips directly in the pot, soak overnight, and use a fine strainer after heating.)

- Once the liquid has cooled to just under 176 F, which takes 0-2 min, add the baking soda and stir. It will instantly turn purple. 

- Place guar/xanthan gum powder into your mixing bowl. Add glycerin and mix up.

- Pour the purple liquid into the mixing bowl and keep mixing. Use an electric mixer for best results. 

- Immediately apply to hair, cover with cling wrap or a large silicone swim cap, and put a winter hat on top to keep warm. Leave on 3 hours. (Longer than that seems to make no difference.)

- Just before rinsing, make the alum after-soak. In warm water (does not have to be distilled), dissolve the baking soda and then the alum. Don't breathe the sulfur gas released by the fizzing (run the stove fan). While using an electric mixer, gradually sprinkle in guar gum until the desired thickness is achieved. (Or pre-disperse it in glycerin and just dump it in, then use an electric mixer.) Set aside for your shower. 

- Rinse out the dye thoroughly, then massage the alum after-soak into your hair and leave on for 20 minutes while showering. Rinse out, keeping your mouth and eyes shut. (Alum isn't something you want to ingest in significant amounts, though it's safe and unabsorbed topically.)

- Use conditioner (do not shampoo until next shower).

To keep the purple color, avoid hydrogen peroxide, chlorine, bleach, salt, highly acidic mixes, coconut oil, shea butter, and most other oils and butters except jojoba, rice bran oil, daikon seed extract oil, and Abyssinian oil. (Those last four don't penetrate hair, so they don't remove the color.)

Voila! After first rinsing, it always looks darkest because there's still loose dye residue that later comes out. 

After a few washes, it settled into this color and stayed that way permanently. Note that the black at the bottom was from when I previously dyed my hair with indigo, which is still growing out. The top is where you can see the logwood results, with natural lighting. It'll look significantly darker (nearly black) in dim indoor lighting, if you have naturally dark hair underneath.